Cyclone 5- 2012
So Now that the battery pack works, It's time to add some finishing touches that should have been done last year but did not get done.. I"m sure someone is to blame for this but i'm not pointing fingers... heh heh..
March 13, 2012
After a visit to the parts room, i found a few " Crystalyte " battery bags, I got these along with a shipment of motors a few years ago and quickly learned that you get what you pay for, these bags are nice, but the zippers are terrible !
However, they happen to have a key switch !!..
Next part, a Relay !
Why a Relay ?
What is a Relay ?
Well, the short version is this, it is basically a switch, instead of a knob or button to turn it on/off , it has a coil that will pull a metal plate or repel it via a spring when that coil is fed power from the battery..
Look at all these legs !
Now all these terminals could be used to do a number of things, i've used one way back on my Chaos it allowed me to switch between 2 different speeds on a dual-speed crystalyte hub motor..
This relay is rated at 13 amps, the cyclone motor controller requires up to 40+ amps, using all 3 legs in parallel i am confident it will work well, i was using one at 20 amps on a single pole with the Chaos.
On Top, see how the brass contacts will complete(close) the circuit when pulled UP, and cut the circuit(open ) when not powered.
So that is the relay, and key, also adding a FUSE !
This is a 70 amp fuse that will burn should something severe like a dead short was to happen, but will not pop while in use, large enough to prevent excessive voltage drop..
A set of 12v Blue lights..
The cyclone battery pack is 24v, these bulbs would blow at 24v, however while in Series, the voltage gets devided between them and they get 12v each.
This will be a reminder that " Hey.. Power is on !!!.. "
After a few cups of coffee, and a whole lot of thinking thru various options...
GREEN is where to route the power wires going to the motor.
PURPLE is where I think the key should be zip tied/mounted to the bike.
March 26, 2012
Over the weekend I quadruple checked my circuits and started soldering..
Sandy did not aprove of my not paying as much attention to her..
Getting 3 wires ot stay together while you solder them to a fuse, not easy, had to cut a strip of copper and hold it all down.. the yellow stuff underneath is " G10 " or " bakeware ", un-coated circuit board, fiberglass sheet, all the same thing, heat resistant and good working surface for soldering.
On one side, a single Positive wire to the pack..
On the other side 3 wires, one for the relay circuit, one for charging, and one for the key switch. All safe and protected by this 70 amp fuse.
Above, the long wires at the bottom are to the motor...
The key taps into the pack's 24v to energize the relay coil
the anderson pair of connectors pointing down are to charge.. so the pack can be charged without being disconnected from the motor.. with or without the key switch on.
Could also serve as a 24v output for lights.. mp3 player.. phone charger.. gps.. * ( would require a DC/DC converter to step down the 24v to 12v or 5v depending on the application )
Ok. so back to the project.
After testing the key and relay a few dozen times, soldering in the blue lights, making sure my soldering is solid i coated the entire thing in hot glue.. one solid mass and no exposed metal.
A few weeks ago, Canadian Tire had a sale on bench vice, i have 2 of these in the garage, needed one for the house workshop !!.
Using a sheet of grid paper, not sure what the proper name for this stuff is.. but you get the idea...
cut, sized and decided on a pattern.
I wanted to make it straight lines to match the angles of the frame tubes but since i do not have the bike here, this would have ended up all wrong so i went with a round shape..
ok.. so that's done.
After setting the blue lights in hot glue, i wanted to test the relay again with the cover installed....
I stupidly used red and black andersons for both the charge and relay circuits..... yeah.... guess what i did ?
I flipped the key, and heard a " POP " .. and no lights came on...... uh oh....
See.. fuses are a good thing sometimes !!!!
No damage to the key or anything else, had there not been a fuse.. well.. i would have ended up with a severe case of " KFF "
Kentucky Fried Fingers !
I changed the key connectors to GREY andersons.... no more making that mistake !!!
March 27, 2012
After fully charging and ballancing the pack, i have been using 5ah and charging to 4.17v over the past few days... so tonight i filled it up to 4.20v and am discharging.
14ah into a 25ah pack.. and..
All nice and ballanced...
GEEK ALERT !!!! ( The following is very important LiPo information.. pls read carefully )
A single LiPo cell is fully charged at 4.20v and discharged at 3.0v ...
Below 3.0v is harmfull to a LiPo cell and should be avoided .. always..
The cells in this pack are 5ah ( 5 amp hour .. or 5 amps for 1 hour ) capacity
Each Pack has 6 cells ( 6S , or 6 in series ) for 24v
Using 5 of these packs, in parallel, 5 x 5 = 25ah at 24v
Still with me ?.. good.... if not .. go up to the red line and read again.. :-)
Using my Lightbulbs...
I measured 20ah
All cells are 3.69v to 3.70v at 20 ah..
What does that mean ? and Why ?
Well, if any single cell was bad, it would show as a lower voltage given that 20ah from a 25ah pack is equal to 80 % rated capacity and still going strong..
It is not a good idea to drain lipo cells deeply, so i'm not going any further than this, i now know that none of the parallel connections have come loose inside the box, no heat detectable or swelling of the box.. means this pack is ready for 2012 !