RC Page 4 ! ! !

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July 4, 2011

Last night, went out with my neighbor, he took my Norco Chaos 100v 409, and i took the RC bike, shortly after leaving home i noticed an un-usual sound in the drive system.....

Slowed down, leaned in and looked for obvious problems, all the set screws are solid ( i put liquid paper on the shafts to see if anything moved.. ) .. pulled over and spun the drive by hand and no noise.. checked for kinked links in the chains, none to be seen..

Carried on with our ride, did a 20 km run or so...

Today, my cousin was over, and we decided to go again, so i reluctantly took the RC bike, cousin took the Norco and my neighbor got on the chopper..

Same rickety rack, comes and goes, regardless of RPM, no vibrations out of the ordinary but something obviously not right in there.... no power loss .. but un-nerving..

So, after getting home in rain ( got light showers on the last km home.. but made it safe and just in time ) .. I removed the 2nd stage chain to free up the rear wheel and locate the noise.. , spun up the motor and rickey rack again...

removed belt.. still making noise.. removed motor cover fearing crunchy bearings... and found this :

Well cooked windings on the top part, blackened varnish..

But if you look closer at the bottom of the motor... ...

I cleaned out the cover, removed any visible stray solder beads i could find, and put it back together, still some noise in there........the rotor had to come out so i could check the bearing on the other end.

Below, what i took out of the motor..

Rotor looks ok

When i first got the motor, first thing i noticed was the rough finish on the shaft ends, this is not acceptable on a first class motor like the Astroflight..

Inside the motor

All that solder had to come from somewhere, so after removing the shrink wrap from the winding terminations ...

I inquired with ES peeps and this looks " ok " as the solder covers all the ends but for good measure...

I used Zinc solder instead of the usual Kester 44 as it has a higher melting point, i hope that will do it this time..

Added a fresh layer of shrink, and ordered a few custom aluminum heat sinks from " Mr. S " to help keep things cooler..

Next, i covered the rotor with paper and tape so that i could file down the ends of the shaft cleanly, this makes metal shavings that i do not want attached to the rotor magnets, all the tape will help to keep things clean.

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July 7, 2011

After putting the motor back together, and testing it , Phew.. all good and quiet !

Now it's time to finish the fairings, but before that gets done the wiring needs to be re-done for proper charging... and before that.... I really need to install a Relay for the ON/OFF process, i'm tired of hooking up andersons every time....

So the bike is now apart and being worked on some more.... pictuers to add later !

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July 11, 2011

So now that the motor is back together and quiet again, it's finally time to do something about the rats nest....

I hooked up a CA with a 200 amp shunt, but never hooked up the speedometer, this model Cycle Analyst did not have a seperate speed sensor wire, but after opening it up i tracked down the yellow and green wires that were not being used, the yellow Sp was in the right spot, but the green wire was on the Th ( throttle signal ) pad that i do not need ( like.. who wants to slow things down lol ) .. so i moved that greenie to the G i hope this will work....

Next, i'm sick and tired of playing with wires every time i power up the bike, so it's time to install a proper relay and pre-charge resistor with switches...

Took me a long time to make up my mind but this is where the relay is going.

**Relay : Big switch that turns on/off with the help of a seperate circuit that energizes an electromagnet to make contact .. just like you turn the key in your car (fed by tiny wires ) for it to flip a bigger switch under the hood with large thick heavy gauge wires that can spin the starter motor..

**relay short version: lets me use a small switch near the handlebars to power up the bike.

Below, Nothing but pure dumb luck, the shunt fits perfectly on the relay !! one less hookup wire to make !!

And also, this is the original Fechter throttle box..

It allows me to use a regular ebike 5v Hall type throttle on the RC controller..

Since my lipo packs have dual leads on the parallel harnesses, i have been wanting to double up the leads going to the board... and i am by no means a soldering expert, this task has been something i've dreaded for some time... but turns out it's really not that difficult after all !!

I do that a lot, spend hours thinking about a 5 mintue task

Replaced the stiff cable that the unit came with, with soft turnigy 10 awg wire !!

** crosses fingers it still works when i power it up lol..



The 10 gauge silicone wires that exit the throttle box have to supply the controller with 100 amps, over a single wire, so i replaced the PP45's .. and installed bullets instead.

Wire gauge and power levels can get confusing, i admit to erroring on the side of caution and over-doing certain things, however it gives me peace of mind in the end.. so as long as i'm happy.....

Bullets, ok, now this is something i've never used much, since everything i own has anderson powerpoles, the RC guys and those who play with lots of power say that bullets are a better option.. so with that.

Above, i secured the bullet in a pair of vice grips, since i only have 2 hands and one of those will be needed for the soldering iron. Working on a piece of G10 ( or bakelite as it's often called ) ..

I first filled the bullet with solder, cup side up..

Then put the iron onto the wire side to soak the end with solder, while everything was still hot but re-solidified, i put the iron between the 2 pieces until they both melted adn moved them into position, held for a few seconds while the solder took hold.. and let cool.

Drilled holes into the right side plastic panel and mounted 2 switches .

The bigger one carries 24v for the ON/OFF power relay..

The smaller switch is for the 48v pre-charge resistor circuit that bypasses the relay and powers up the throttle box and controller.. and turns on the CA meter !

 

 

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