Evox

July 31, 2009

A few weeks ago I finished working on the Tri-Rider(page to follow )! When Nick and Ann came to pick it up they delivered this semi recumbent for me to electrify !

I considered all sorts of options including a crystalyte hub, E-Bikekit, cyclone, and so on.. But in the end I went with eZee !

Why ? Well, for one it's available !

I've installed 4 other ezee systems prior to this one and I have to admit that for the money, it's a great kit ! Light, reliable, waterproof!!! and the lithium battery has proven it's worth..

20" front wheel kit arrived in good condition as usual, thank you Ebikes.ca !

Comes complete with a Schwalbe Big Apple tire already installed ! just add air !

1st thing is to remove the original front wheel, start by releasing the V brakes !

Pull quick release lever and remove the wheel.

The eZee axle generally fits very well into standard bicycle dropouts, unlike some others that require a bit of " convincing with tools " .

The wire side of the motor goes on the right side ( when sitting on the bike ) and as seen below, the fit is just right, flat and flush ..

On the left side however...

Notice how the fork has " Lawyer Lips " designed to leep a quick realease axle from getting out if the lever comes loose.. problem with this is that the flat washer would sit on the thin exterior of the fork surface and not clamp on the inside surface ...

For situations like this !

These " C " shapped washers fit over the axle and fill in the gap from the lawyer lip.

Time to tighten the axle nuts, using a 19mm wrench, make sure the rim is centered in the forks, tighten one side then the next, check rim again, and crank them in really good !

The rim on this eZee is alot wider than the original Evox rim ! In order to allow the pads to clear the rim without rubbing and line them up to the rim surface, I swapped the spacers on the brake pads.. Below, notice how there are 2 different thicknesses of spacers

I put the thiner one on the inside of the brake lever, thicker one on the outside giving me just enough room.

Then the throttle side hand grip has to come off to install the throttle.

Now, this is one thing that can be easy or an asbolute hell. If you happen to be lucky and have a grip with a tiny pinhole at the end, use an air compressor and block the oposite end of the handlebars, blow air into the hole and " pop " off it comes.. however.. if you happen to have one of these !

This grip is foam rubber and really.. REALLY does not want to come off. Could just cut it off with a blad knife and use the grips that come with the kit but i like to keep the original grips when ever possible. Again with the air compressor i blew air in between the grip and the handlebar to make an air cussion between the two allowing me to pull it off. Another way to do it is to spray lubricant like wd-40 between the grip and handle bar then wiggle it off.. last resort = knife !

Next thing is to figure out the location of the controller, taking into consideration the lenght of the throttle and Cycle Analyst wires and also the motor wires, I picked a spot below the seat, plenty of passing air to keep things cool, protected by the fender from spray..

There are all sorts of ways to secure the controller to the bike, I happen to have a supply of self adhesive velcro ! This provides a cushioned layer between the controller and the bike frame, prevents anoying vibration noises and what not. Otherwise, a few layers of tape and zip ties work fine.

 

The eZee controller has a nice LED to show power is on.

Connect all the wires, motor, throttle, CA, battery, and test the system, if you have a problem it's better to find out before you zip tie and tuck all the wires neatly ( hate it when that happens ) . If all systems are Go! then it's time to seal the connections with tape.

eZee comes with a black box to protect the connections, take a moment to figure out how to organize the connectors into a shape that will fit inside the black box or you will be removing tape to do it over again lol.. it's a tight fit !

Make an efford to loop the cable going to the motor axle so water will drip at the bottom and nto funnel itself into the motor, the unit is sealed with silicone but water is very resiliant and will eventually make it's way in if you don't keep an eye on things. an ounce of prevention vs a pound of cure.

Leave enough cable at the headset to make sure the handlebars can turn in both directions without pulling on the wires, i usually spiral the wires around the brake/shifter cables as a support and this is also a neat way to use up some extra long wires so you don't have a big bulge to deal with at the controller end.

Now it's tiem for a Test Ride !

I simply wrapped the battery in a towel and bungy corded it to the rear rack initially, as with all batteries, it's best to take it easy on a pack for the first few rides. A pack that has been sitting un-used for a while or many months on a new kit will perform better with regular use, go for a short ride, plug it back in for a full charge and repeat this process 3 or so times.

Everything went good, so next step was to cut the zip tie tails and mount the saddle bags to the rack.

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